Ren'Py Daz Need help starting my own game development

[MissFortune]

There is a denoiser built into Daz. I can't speak to the quality vs other options, but it works for me. However, you need to play with the settings to have it not kick in until a certain point, generally after XXX number of iterations. If you kick it in too early, your images will look very blurry. I usually have it kick in around um... 80% to 85% complete. That denoises it a good bit without smoothing and blurring it too much

Daz uses the Nvidia AI denoiser natively, iirc. Which is fine, though I prefer the Intel one myself. But the way Daz (or even Blender) denoises isn't exactly ideal, especially if you're after detail. They're great for animations, not so great for closeup still renders.

The ideal process is to render out the noisy image completely untouched by any post-processing done by Daz, run it through an external denoiser the DnD denoiser by Taosoft is a good GUI option for either the Intel or Nivida denoisers. No need for both, just one will work. Bring them both into Photoshop/Photopea/etc. with the denoised version as the topmost layer (and work in 16-Bit instead of 8.). From there, you'll layer mask away the part of the denoised image where the original image didn't need denoising. Along with playing with the opacity.

 

[Shairi 3D]

Daz uses the Nvidia AI denoiser natively, iirc. Which is fine, though I prefer the Intel one myself. But the way Daz (or even Blender) denoises isn't exactly ideal, especially if you're after detail. They're great for animations, not so great for closeup still renders.

The ideal process is to render out the noisy image completely untouched by any post-processing done by Daz, run it through an external denoiser the DnD denoiser by Taosoft is a good GUI option for either the Intel or Nivida denoisers. No need for both, just one will work. Bring them both into Photoshop/Photopea/etc. with the denoised version as the topmost layer (and work in 16-Bit instead of 8.). From there, you'll layer mask away the part of the denoised image where the original image didn't need denoising. Along with playing with the opacity.

Oh wow, Thats brilliant advice. Thank you. This way i can preserve roughness along with denoising.

 

[peterppp]

Daz uses the Nvidia AI denoiser natively, iirc. Which is fine, though I prefer the Intel one myself. But the way Daz (or even Blender) denoises isn't exactly ideal, especially if you're after detail. They're great for animations, not so great for closeup still renders.

The ideal process is to render out the noisy image completely untouched by any post-processing done by Daz, run it through an external denoiser the DnD denoiser by Taosoft is a good GUI option for either the Intel or Nivida denoisers. No need for both, just one will work. Bring them both into Photoshop/Photopea/etc. with the denoised version as the topmost layer (and work in 16-Bit instead of 8.). From there, you'll layer mask away the part of the denoised image where the original image didn't need denoising. Along with playing with the opacity.

i don't get how the black color removes the layer. it looks like you're using an eraser? which is how i would do it

 

[MissFortune]

i don't get how the black color removes the layer. it looks like you're using an eraser? which is how i would do it

You can use an eraser, but it's destructive. So, if you went too far in and realized you messed up earlier, CTRL + Z wouldn't really save you, meaning you'd have to start over.

The technique in the video is a layer mask. It's a non-destructive way of removing parts of an image. Black removes, white restores. So, if you mess up, you can just turn the brush white and then go over the part you messed up on. It can save a lot of frustration and such, but it's absolutely not required.

 

[peterppp]

You can use an eraser, but it's destructive. So, if you went too far in and realized you messed up earlier, CTRL + Z wouldn't really save you, meaning you'd have to start over.

The technique in the video is a layer mask. It's a non-destructive way of removing parts of an image. Black removes, white restores. So, if you mess up, you can just turn the brush white and then go over the part you messed up on. It can save a lot of frustration and such, but it's absolutely not required.

i see now. my mistake was that i clicked on the image part of the layer (and turned it into a smart object). then it painted black as usual. clicking on the white part makes it work like in the clip

 

[SurpriseSunlight]

Good luck for your game, I'm on the same boat but still need motivation to start to make one.

Based on your renders (from Blender) I'll give you some tips/information:

So most of the games are using Genesis 8 and Genesis 8.1 assets - some old experimented developers might still be using resources from Genesis 3 - because there's more stuff for this generation than Genesis 9, that consumes more memory (because of the textures) and does not make it accept G8 easily, I suggest having MMX Genesis converter to help you go from G9 to G8.

Animation is not the best experience in DAZ (it works but there's better), but there's simulation involved for the physics part and will require you to be familiar with dForce, also please avoid stiff or slow movements as if you were a robot.

From your renders on Blender, I really like the Melina one. On DAZ you will prefer having a HDRI first then setting up some point lights and a distant light for some ray casts. Although you might be interested in KindredArts HDRI stuff, like fog, rain, wet, sweat, fire, camera light, etc. I won't say it's a must-have but for more cinematic renders it provides some tools.

DAZ provides the basics in terms of sliders and you will probably need to use a lot more sliders and for that I'd say Zev0 stuff IS a must-have, perhaps not everything but you'll have sliders for boobs (the most important of course) but also aging (making younger or older characters), glutes, magic camera (change pose or hide stuff based on the camera and not having to reload a new scene), etc. on probably every genesis generation so you don't have to worry about it.

About seggs, I guess there's two schools: the ones who are using the DAZ genitalia provided and using either vanilla or sliders (I do this) or you rely on custom genitalia with their sliders like NGV8/NGV9, Golden Palace or Dicktator for example. You should try both to see whatever you like, there's a lot of experimentation to do before you feel confident on your DAZ scenes, but you'll always learn something from this.

 

[MissFortune]

Based on your renders (from Blender) I'll give you some tips/information:

Just going to chime in on the first and third points:

If a dev is already using 8.1, there's not a whole lot of difference from a VRAM perspective. Both 8.1 and 9 use roughly 6.5GB-7GB of VRAM depending on the PA/vendor, assuming no optimizations. I think G9 skin textures, for whatever reason, tend to play nicer with lights than 8.1 often does. There are some 8K G9 clothing assets out there, which should promptly be downscaled in PS as it's nigh entirely useless for anything but extreme closeups.

If they're coming from Blender, they're likely already decently knowledgeable with light sources. The examples they posted seem to enforce it. HDRIs are great for outdoor stuff/window shots, but should be avoided for indoor scenes unless a user has a lower end GPU. Point lights are good for candles, smaller light sources, or anything else that tends to show light omnidirectionally. Distant lights should generally be avoided. Spotlights for Daz are what Area Lights are to Blender, imo. They kind of do nearly everything. Ghost Lights (for the practical lighting) and Spotlights for the character/focus of the shot should be your main light sources for indoors, if hardware allows.

 

[Eezergoode]

The ideal process is to render out the noisy image completely untouched by any post-processing done by Daz, run it through an external denoiser the DnD denoiser by Taosoft is a good GUI option for either the Intel or Nivida denoisers. No need for both, just one will work. Bring them both into Photoshop/Photopea/etc. with the denoised version as the topmost layer (and work in 16-Bit instead of 8.). From there, you'll layer mask away the part of the denoised image where the original image didn't need denoising. Along with playing with the opacity.

I hate to admit but I never actually thought of doing this. Mainly because i keep hoping I'll find an artist and be able to focus on writing and coding, but in all reality, that's not likely to happen, so I'll experiment with this method and see how it fits into my (very sporadic) work flow.