Hands in SD is a huge issue regardless which UI being used. After detailer only has a couple hand models afaik atm. I have tried both hand_yolov8n.pt, hand_yolov8s.pt. The "n" model gives better result for me, I have never had any success with the "s" model. I'm sure new and better models will come eventually. I find that I get better results fixing the hands with after detailer in inpaint img2img rather than using after detailer hand model while generating the image. You can also use controlnet for the hands, though I have not tried this myself yet.Are there better hand models for Adetailer in A1111 or extension in ComfyUI or A1111 that could fix the hands(fingers)?You don't have permission to view the spoiler content. Log in or register now.
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And what settings would you apply to make the image more realistic or artistic(like a studio photo)?
On page one you can find links to helpful posts.Hi everyone,
I'm new to the world of AI art generation and have recently started exploring Stable Diffusion. I'm particularly interested in using Fooocus.
Could anyone recommend comprehensive tutorials or guides that are particularly well-suited for beginners? I’m looking for resources that can help me understand the nuances of generating high-quality images and utilizing Fooocus to its full potential.
Thank you for sharing the PDF in your recent post; I find it incredibly helpful and have started to study it.On page one you can find links to helpful posts.
I think this post I did today is relevant to you.
https://f95zone.to/threads/stable-diffusion-prompt-sharing-and-learning-thread.146036/post-12775145
or just scroll up a bit...
I saw that you are interested in focus. I'm not sure in what context or terms you meant, but I have a few tips.Thank you for sharing the PDF in your recent post; I find it incredibly helpful and have started to study it.
I can also recommend "bokeh" which is a photography term for a blurred background, especially one that converts points of light into vague blobs e.g.I saw that you are interested in focus. I'm not sure in what context or terms you meant, but I have a few tips.
You can use "focus" for the composition example "ass focus". This will generate images with the framing being centered on the bottom midsection from behind or slightly from the side. You can use " hips focus", this will do the same but more from the front. That's one way of using focus. Then you can say "sharp focus" or "soft focus", "front focus" (speculating a little), "background focus" etc. When using simply "sharp focus", it means the lens focus on the subject, mainly the face but also the body. I have not experimented so much with a soft focus or an artistic selective focus on the background and have the subject partially unfocused. But it's something to try. I typically use "focus" to reinforce the composition I have in mind and use it in combination with either "cowboy shot", "half body shot" or "full body shot". Then the "body part focus" will guide the camera in on the part you wish to be in the center focus. This can give more interesting images. If you combine it with a style of photography such as "action photography", "lifestyle" or "documentary" etc. This will also have an effect on the composition.
I use "beauty photography" often and when I want a more analoge or grainy image I simply use "large format beauty photography" as an example. In that case "large format" is what gives the filmgrain.
You can use different variants of "depth of field" to enhance or reinforce the focus you are after. I use mostly regular "depth of field" but sometimes "shallow depth of field". I like how it makes the subject stand out more from the backdrop. It can sometimes almost create a 3d effect.
Yes. I forgot to mention this. I often use it as well as depth of field. Something to try is different types of bokeh, example "hasselblad bokeh", "soft bokeh" or "light bokeh". Of course then use weight for modulation.I can also recommend "bokeh" which is a photography term for a blurred background, especially one that converts points of light into vague blobs e.g. View attachment 3292306
I'm sorry for not expressing myself clearly. By Fooocus, I meant this:I saw that you are interested in focus. I'm not sure in what context or terms you meant, but I have a few tips.
You can use "focus" for the composition example "ass focus". This will generate images with the framing being centered on the bottom midsection from behind or slightly from the side. You can use " hips focus", this will do the same but more from the front. That's one way of using focus. Then you can say "sharp focus" or "soft focus", "front focus" (speculating a little), "background focus" etc. When using simply "sharp focus", it means the lens focus on the subject, mainly the face but also the body. I have not experimented so much with a soft focus or an artistic selective focus on the background and have the subject partially unfocused. But it's something to try. I typically use "focus" to reinforce the composition I have in mind and use it in combination with either "cowboy shot", "half body shot" or "full body shot". Then the "body part focus" will guide the camera in on the part you wish to be in the center focus. This can give more interesting images. If you combine it with a style of photography such as "action photography", "lifestyle" or "documentary" etc. This will also have an effect on the composition.
I use "beauty photography" often and when I want a more analoge or grainy image I simply use "large format beauty photography" as an example. In that case "large format" is what gives the filmgrain.
You can use different variants of "depth of field" to enhance or reinforce the focus you are after. I use mostly regular "depth of field" but sometimes "shallow depth of field". I like how it makes the subject stand out more from the backdrop. It can sometimes almost create a 3d effect.
hmm.. learn something new everydayI saw that you are interested in focus. I'm not sure in what context or terms you meant, but I have a few tips.
You can use "focus" for the composition example "ass focus". This will generate images with the framing being centered on the bottom midsection from behind or slightly from the side. You can use " hips focus", this will do the same but more from the front. That's one way of using focus. Then you can say "sharp focus" or "soft focus", "front focus" (speculating a little), "background focus" etc. When using simply "sharp focus", it means the lens focus on the subject, mainly the face but also the body. I have not experimented so much with a soft focus or an artistic selective focus on the background and have the subject partially unfocused. But it's something to try. I typically use "focus" to reinforce the composition I have in mind and use it in combination with either "cowboy shot", "half body shot" or "full body shot". Then the "body part focus" will guide the camera in on the part you wish to be in the center focus. This can give more interesting images. If you combine it with a style of photography such as "action photography", "lifestyle" or "documentary" etc. This will also have an effect on the composition.
I use "beauty photography" often and when I want a more analoge or grainy image I simply use "large format beauty photography" as an example. In that case "large format" is what gives the filmgrain.
You can use different variants of "depth of field" to enhance or reinforce the focus you are after. I use mostly regular "depth of field" but sometimes "shallow depth of field". I like how it makes the subject stand out more from the backdrop. It can sometimes almost create a 3d effect.
yes Fooocus is nice and pretty easy. i recommended the forks of itI'm sorry for not expressing myself clearly. By Fooocus, I meant this:You must be registered to see the links
We all sure need an anus.. Can I get some help with mine?I'll throw out that for a photo realistic but blurry or almost green screened effect the LCM sampler can produce high quality images. LCM can also make a smooth almost 3D looking image when doing image to image without negative prompts just lower the config scale.
The DDPM sampler is my go to now for photoreal even over the new huenpp2.
I can stress the importance of adjusting the config scaling as some samplers will be horrible at the default 8
also...
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I understand the concerns about the need for manual adjustments in image generation software, but from my experience as a beginner, Fooocus has been refreshingly easy to use. It's not as overwhelming as other tools I've tried. The upscale, inpaint, and outpaint functions are particularly user-friendly and have helped me a lot." Fooocus is a rethinking of Stable Diffusion and Midjourney’s designs:
- Learned from Stable Diffusion, the software is offline, open source, and free.
- Learned from Midjourney, the manual tweaking is not needed, and users only need to focus on the prompts and images. "
Yeah if only... I'm highly sceptical. I don't believe any software is there yet that it doesn't need a helping hand.
It's not a hassle to manually tweaking settings etc, it's more control. You can be very creative with A1111 thanks to all the control you have.