[Stable Diffusion] Prompt Sharing and Learning Thread

[theMickey_]

I am actually looking for a node that display all available embeddings like maybe a drop-down list.

This is what I use in ComfyUI -- just use the Manager and search for "Embedding"

 

[me3]

Continuing the battle for animated images without using any of the extension/nodes for it...
It's a rather small step, in more ways than one, but it's at least fair consistent

View attachment test.webp

Prompt for the base image is the same as in this post

 

[namhoang909]

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Are there better hand models for Adetailer in A1111 or extension in ComfyUI or A1111 that could fix the hands(fingers)?

And what settings would you apply to make the image more realistic or artistic(like a studio photo)?

 

[Mr-Fox]

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Are there better hand models for Adetailer in A1111 or extension in ComfyUI or A1111 that could fix the hands(fingers)?
View attachment 3288384
And what settings would you apply to make the image more realistic or artistic(like a studio photo)?

Hands in SD is a huge issue regardless which UI being used. After detailer only has a couple hand models afaik atm. I have tried both hand_yolov8n.pt, hand_yolov8s.pt. The "n" model gives better result for me, I have never had any success with the "s" model. I'm sure new and better models will come eventually. I find that I get better results fixing the hands with after detailer in inpaint img2img rather than using after detailer hand model while generating the image. You can also use controlnet for the hands, though I have not tried this myself yet.
I have made posts about fixing hands.

Inpaint with after detailer:
https://f95zone.to/threads/stable-diffusion-prompt-sharing-and-learning-thread.146036/post-12545892

Hand FIXING Controlnet - MeshGraphormer
https://f95zone.to/threads/stable-diffusion-prompt-sharing-and-learning-thread.146036/post-12608930

Fixing hands with the free image editor krita and ai plugin
https://f95zone.to/threads/stable-diffusion-prompt-sharing-and-learning-thread.146036/post-12643242


In regards to the photo realism. It's a big topic. This is all about the checkpoint model and how it has been trained.
You can of course enhance it by using lora's and/or Ti's etc.
Use negative prompts like this "(((3D, Render, Animation, painting, cartoon, anime)))" .
Specify what style it is in the positive prompt, example "beauty photography".
Use photography terms for light and shadows, and if you want analoge look you can specify what type of camera the image was shot with and the type of film and the camera settings etc.
Use tags for skin details etc.

Lighting:

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For the best details use as high starting resolution you can get away with, without creating twins or monsters.
This means under 1024 for SD1.5 (640x960) and for SDXL a resolution that is equal to 2048 such as 896x1152.

(thanks to the eminent Synalon for providing this list).

A few checkpoint models I would recommend trying out:

- absolutereality

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- aZovyaPhotoreal

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- devlishphotorealism

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- icbinpICantBelieveIts

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- photon

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- realisticVision

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There is an awesome ebook by Prompt Geek about creating photo realistic images that I have posted here before.
His video about it:

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A few links if you wish to support him though it's free:
-

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-

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Or use my link below:

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[me3]

Playing around with automatically masking "parts" for replacement/fixing, ended up completely screwing up my workflow but at least i know it works.

All the water caused issues with upscaling and detailing in the first image. Success improved drastically with the second image considering the was far less chance to screw things over. Still had the base generated image for that so can be used to see changes.
And yes, both eyes are done separate and mean to be different, one is purplish other is a cat eye (seed differences etc)

Spoiler: Base prompt

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(edited sidenote, when you're doing upscaling in stages...don't fuck up the math and/or forget one of the stages and end up with 16k * 16k images...all the tiles is horribly slow, specially if your graphic card suck...)

 

[Thalies]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the world of AI art generation and have recently started exploring Stable Diffusion. I'm particularly interested in using Fooocus.

Could anyone recommend comprehensive tutorials or guides that are particularly well-suited for beginners? I’m looking for resources that can help me understand the nuances of generating high-quality images and utilizing Fooocus to its full potential.

 

[Mr-Fox]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the world of AI art generation and have recently started exploring Stable Diffusion. I'm particularly interested in using Fooocus.

Could anyone recommend comprehensive tutorials or guides that are particularly well-suited for beginners? I’m looking for resources that can help me understand the nuances of generating high-quality images and utilizing Fooocus to its full potential.

On page one you can find links to helpful posts.
I think this post I did today is relevant to you.
https://f95zone.to/threads/stable-diffusion-prompt-sharing-and-learning-thread.146036/post-12775145

or just scroll up a bit...

 

[Thalies]

On page one you can find links to helpful posts.
I think this post I did today is relevant to you.
https://f95zone.to/threads/stable-diffusion-prompt-sharing-and-learning-thread.146036/post-12775145

or just scroll up a bit...

Thank you for sharing the PDF in your recent post; I find it incredibly helpful and have started to study it.

 

[Mr-Fox]

Thank you for sharing the PDF in your recent post; I find it incredibly helpful and have started to study it.

I saw that you are interested in focus. I'm not sure in what context or terms you meant, but I have a few tips.
You can use "focus" for the composition example "ass focus". This will generate images with the framing being centered on the bottom midsection from behind or slightly from the side. You can use " hips focus", this will do the same but more from the front. That's one way of using focus. Then you can say "sharp focus" or "soft focus", "front focus" (speculating a little), "background focus" etc. When using simply "sharp focus", it means the lens focus on the subject, mainly the face but also the body. I have not experimented so much with a soft focus or an artistic selective focus on the background and have the subject partially unfocused. But it's something to try. I typically use "focus" to reinforce the composition I have in mind and use it in combination with either "cowboy shot", "half body shot" or "full body shot". Then the "body part focus" will guide the camera in on the part you wish to be in the center focus. This can give more interesting images. If you combine it with a style of photography such as "action photography", "lifestyle" or "documentary" etc. This will also have an effect on the composition.
I use "beauty photography" often and when I want a more analoge or grainy image I simply use "large format beauty photography" as an example. In that case "large format" is what gives the filmgrain.
You can use different variants of "depth of field" to enhance or reinforce the focus you are after. I use mostly regular "depth of field" but sometimes "shallow depth of field". I like how it makes the subject stand out more from the backdrop. It can sometimes almost create a 3d effect.

 

[Jimwalrus]

I saw that you are interested in focus. I'm not sure in what context or terms you meant, but I have a few tips.
You can use "focus" for the composition example "ass focus". This will generate images with the framing being centered on the bottom midsection from behind or slightly from the side. You can use " hips focus", this will do the same but more from the front. That's one way of using focus. Then you can say "sharp focus" or "soft focus", "front focus" (speculating a little), "background focus" etc. When using simply "sharp focus", it means the lens focus on the subject, mainly the face but also the body. I have not experimented so much with a soft focus or an artistic selective focus on the background and have the subject partially unfocused. But it's something to try. I typically use "focus" to reinforce the composition I have in mind and use it in combination with either "cowboy shot", "half body shot" or "full body shot". Then the "body part focus" will guide the camera in on the part you wish to be in the center focus. This can give more interesting images. If you combine it with a style of photography such as "action photography", "lifestyle" or "documentary" etc. This will also have an effect on the composition.
I use "beauty photography" often and when I want a more analoge or grainy image I simply use "large format beauty photography" as an example. In that case "large format" is what gives the filmgrain.
You can use different variants of "depth of field" to enhance or reinforce the focus you are after. I use mostly regular "depth of field" but sometimes "shallow depth of field". I like how it makes the subject stand out more from the backdrop. It can sometimes almost create a 3d effect.

I can also recommend "bokeh" which is a photography term for a blurred background, especially one that converts points of light into vague blobs e.g.

 

[Mr-Fox]

I can also recommend "bokeh" which is a photography term for a blurred background, especially one that converts points of light into vague blobs e.g. View attachment 3292306

Yes. I forgot to mention this. I often use it as well as depth of field. Something to try is different types of bokeh, example "hasselblad bokeh", "soft bokeh" or "light bokeh". Of course then use weight for modulation.

Really nice and different outfit, and you got really nice hands on her also. Oh and the girl is very cute.

 

[Thalies]

I saw that you are interested in focus. I'm not sure in what context or terms you meant, but I have a few tips.
You can use "focus" for the composition example "ass focus". This will generate images with the framing being centered on the bottom midsection from behind or slightly from the side. You can use " hips focus", this will do the same but more from the front. That's one way of using focus. Then you can say "sharp focus" or "soft focus", "front focus" (speculating a little), "background focus" etc. When using simply "sharp focus", it means the lens focus on the subject, mainly the face but also the body. I have not experimented so much with a soft focus or an artistic selective focus on the background and have the subject partially unfocused. But it's something to try. I typically use "focus" to reinforce the composition I have in mind and use it in combination with either "cowboy shot", "half body shot" or "full body shot". Then the "body part focus" will guide the camera in on the part you wish to be in the center focus. This can give more interesting images. If you combine it with a style of photography such as "action photography", "lifestyle" or "documentary" etc. This will also have an effect on the composition.
I use "beauty photography" often and when I want a more analoge or grainy image I simply use "large format beauty photography" as an example. In that case "large format" is what gives the filmgrain.
You can use different variants of "depth of field" to enhance or reinforce the focus you are after. I use mostly regular "depth of field" but sometimes "shallow depth of field". I like how it makes the subject stand out more from the backdrop. It can sometimes almost create a 3d effect.

I'm sorry for not expressing myself clearly. By Fooocus, I meant this:

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[modine2021]

I saw that you are interested in focus. I'm not sure in what context or terms you meant, but I have a few tips.
You can use "focus" for the composition example "ass focus". This will generate images with the framing being centered on the bottom midsection from behind or slightly from the side. You can use " hips focus", this will do the same but more from the front. That's one way of using focus. Then you can say "sharp focus" or "soft focus", "front focus" (speculating a little), "background focus" etc. When using simply "sharp focus", it means the lens focus on the subject, mainly the face but also the body. I have not experimented so much with a soft focus or an artistic selective focus on the background and have the subject partially unfocused. But it's something to try. I typically use "focus" to reinforce the composition I have in mind and use it in combination with either "cowboy shot", "half body shot" or "full body shot". Then the "body part focus" will guide the camera in on the part you wish to be in the center focus. This can give more interesting images. If you combine it with a style of photography such as "action photography", "lifestyle" or "documentary" etc. This will also have an effect on the composition.
I use "beauty photography" often and when I want a more analoge or grainy image I simply use "large format beauty photography" as an example. In that case "large format" is what gives the filmgrain.
You can use different variants of "depth of field" to enhance or reinforce the focus you are after. I use mostly regular "depth of field" but sometimes "shallow depth of field". I like how it makes the subject stand out more from the backdrop. It can sometimes almost create a 3d effect.

hmm.. learn something new everyday

 

[modine2021]

I'm sorry for not expressing myself clearly. By Fooocus, I meant this:

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yes Fooocus is nice and pretty easy. i recommended the forks of it

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or

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( for more control)

 

[modine2021]

another nice app. where all ur AI apps share the same models. no 50/11 folders and running out of space.

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[felldude]

I'll throw out that for a photo realistic but blurry or almost green screened effect the LCM sampler can produce high quality images. LCM can also make a smooth almost 3D looking image when doing image to image without negative prompts just lower the config scale.

The DDPM sampler is my go to now for photoreal even over the new huenpp2.

I can stress the importance of adjusting the config scaling as some samplers will be horrible at the default 8

also...

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[Mr-Fox]

I'll throw out that for a photo realistic but blurry or almost green screened effect the LCM sampler can produce high quality images. LCM can also make a smooth almost 3D looking image when doing image to image without negative prompts just lower the config scale.

The DDPM sampler is my go to now for photoreal even over the new huenpp2.

I can stress the importance of adjusting the config scaling as some samplers will be horrible at the default 8

also...

You must be registered to see the links

View attachment 3293599

We all sure need an anus.. Can I get some help with mine?

 

[Lun@]

I'm so glad I stumbled upon this thread. I just started playing around with Stable Diffusion a couple of days ago and have kind of got addicted to trying to get beautiful images from it. I'm using img2img and have been experimenting with things like bokeh etc.

My biggest problem isn't the extra limbs/duplicate heads anymore since I filled out the negative keywords more thoroughly and kept size to 512 x 512, it's the eyes. Out of 20 images, only a couple will have normalish eyes, the rest are pretty much mutant or like runny eggs

I started using inpaint and doing a mask over the eyes which has helped a bit but not completely. The link for the beginners guide stuff is great, I'm going to read through all that.

Have I missed something or is there a way to save all your settings in the Web UI without having to fill the keywords etc. in every time I launch it?

 

[Mr-Fox]

" Fooocus is a rethinking of Stable Diffusion and Midjourney’s designs:

• Learned from Stable Diffusion, the software is offline, open source, and free.
• Learned from Midjourney, the manual tweaking is not needed, and users only need to focus on the prompts and images. "
  
  Yeah if only... I'm highly sceptical. I don't believe any software is there yet that it doesn't need a helping hand.
  It's not a hassle to manually tweaking settings etc, it's more control. You can be very creative with A1111 thanks to all the control you have.

 

[Thalies]

" Fooocus is a rethinking of Stable Diffusion and Midjourney’s designs:

• Learned from Stable Diffusion, the software is offline, open source, and free.
• Learned from Midjourney, the manual tweaking is not needed, and users only need to focus on the prompts and images. "
  
  Yeah if only... I'm highly sceptical. I don't believe any software is there yet that it doesn't need a helping hand.
  It's not a hassle to manually tweaking settings etc, it's more control. You can be very creative with A1111 thanks to all the control you have.

I understand the concerns about the need for manual adjustments in image generation software, but from my experience as a beginner, Fooocus has been refreshingly easy to use. It's not as overwhelming as other tools I've tried. The upscale, inpaint, and outpaint functions are particularly user-friendly and have helped me a lot.