- Jun 16, 2019
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Third and last in 24 hours, enjoyed making them
The more I look at it, the more I think it's the eyes. Maybe the expression in general but I think the eyes play a major role into it. Perhaps it's what ZeroSum_ said, perhaps the flat lighting doesn't help either.Hmm what makes her creepy? Can't have people getting creeped out or too uncanny valley
- Jan 2, 2018
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Sure. The best way is to stick to the "science" of photographers. A "Full Frame" camera has a sensor width of 36mm. In DAZ it is called "Frame Width" and can be found within the camera settings. So a Normal Lens would be around 50mm "Focal Length". Everything larger is considered "Tele Lens" (or sometimes zoom lens IMO this is a misleading name) everything below Wide Angle Lens. Tele Lenses with an approx range of 65mm were considered good for portraits, and they still are to a certain degree, but they fell out of fashion for 90+mm when it comes to high-quality portraits in magazines or fine art.Thank you for the suggestions. Do you know of good lens setting for something natural looking like human eyes? Getting that arm to sit right is a challenge...
Unfortunately I am colorblind and do my best but it gets really confusing trying to balance things out when the colors don't make sense to me.
Totally agree about the clutter! Am working on that
[...]
The Default Values in DAZ Studio are 36mm for Frame Width and 65mm for Focal length.
Good for close up portraits not so much for portraits with a lot of scenery around.
Change the Focal Length to 50mm.
Other typical settings would be 22,5mm for Frame Width and 32mm for Focal Length. (Normal Lens APS-C [not Canon they are special snowflakes])
Frame Width 24mm and 30mm Focal Length (Normal Lens for Canon APS-C)
And my favourite 17,3mm Frame Width and 25mm Focal Length (Micro Four Thirds) for this you will also use a 4:3 Aspect Ratio for the most photorealistic result.
Stick to this, remember always a "Normal Lens" represents the natural distortion humans experience with their eyes.
Tele Lenses help you with separation and focus on a single subject Wide Angle Lenses are more for scenery and help you to present a strong foreground and lessen the impact of the background the wider they get. And they always distort your image in a certain way.
The other settings are probably too much for now.
For your colourblindness there are two very helpful "tricks" you could use.
First, always have a small plane that is purely "normal grey" and has a matte surface. 21% grey for Canon Cameras 18% grey for the rest of the world (RGB 118,118,118). Just put it in a corner you know you will crop out later in postwork. This grey plane you can use to let the postwork program of your choice make an automatic white balance. It is important that the plane is rendered within your scene. If you are using Lightroom you could also put a pure white and pure black plane next to the grey one. Lightroom has a white balance tool that can use all three pieces of information to give optimal results. I really wish RawTherapee would also have the black and the white colour picker for white balance. After that, only enhance with the "Vibrance" slider and activate "protect skin colours" if available in your software, not the "Saturation" slider. "Vibrance" has an inbuild smart macro to pick colours for you while "Saturation" impacts every colour equal. And use it with care. Most of the time values between 15 and 25 are enough to make a difference. Your taste and experience is the key here.
The other "trick" is, to go b/w or monochrome. Depending on the kind of colourblindness there could be comfortable monochrome palettes for you to use. A friend of mine is weak on green and red, so he likes to dabble with blue schemes.
When it comes to clutter there are a lot of nice and good tips here in the thread, depending on the processing power of your rig. Billboards, Scene Optimizer and scatter tools that create instances are the most versatile options to achieve good results with reasonable impact to the render time.
Edit: It was too late for me yesterday I falsely claimed that Canon uses a 24% grey, that is wrong. They use a 21% grey for calibration.
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- Sep 16, 2020
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Now is when I start placing every character I have into this setup, because it looks good and during the week I like to line up easy variants while I do other things. But this is the OG for the light columns w/ side chicks series.
- Jun 12, 2020
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- May 7, 2017
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colourblind myself, keep an eye on the RGB numbers, for me its reds and greens, so if I think I'm working with a brown but either the red or green value seem a bit too high that's a good warning, we're not painting with a palette of colours that look the same, were working with textures from normie sighted people so it's not as much as a hindrance as you think.Thank you for the suggestions. Do you know of good lens setting for something natural looking like human eyes? Getting that arm to sit right is a challenge...
Unfortunately I am colorblind and do my best but it gets really confusing trying to balance things out when the colors don't make sense to me.
Totally agree about the clutter! Am working on that
So I did try the eyeball point at camera setting but it seems to look wrong. I will try to adjust it manually.
The background is during school hours, between classes, the MC is talking to her about their plans for the last week of school. Soon the bell will ring and they will go to class, so I agree, there totally needs to be some clutter or stuff in the hallway.
After spending about an hour trying to retexture these crappy lockers I have decided to replace them completely. They are really bad anyways and can't even open.
Hmm what makes her creepy? Can't have people getting creeped out or too uncanny valley
..Or my renders have really weird colours and I'm making a fool of myself
, either way at least some people seem to like it.Also I avoid changing lighting colour as much as I can, google light temperature charts and use the temperature setting in parameters instead.
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- Oct 8, 2020
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What? Something's wrong with this?
The worst part is, I already had to redo an alternate path version of this image for the same reason!
- May 11, 2021
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Working on proportions.
Side by side with reference image.
POV view
Side by side with reference image.
POV view
- May 28, 2017
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.... I think we all relate to this.Out of reacts for today but I this is exactly why screenshots are taboo. "1 hour to render and then I'm free for the day" 6 hours later.....
- May 17, 2020
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Ever simulated some dForce hair for over 17hours just to not like it and redo it severall time
?WEll.. then you know what i like xD
- May 7, 2017
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And I thought dforce hair spazzing after an hour just when it was about to finish was bad enough. I salute you sirEver simulated some dForce hair for over 17hours just to not like it and redo it severall time
WEll.. then you know what i like xD
- Jul 25, 2020
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- Apr 18, 2021
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Wow lots of good information here. I'm still digesting the lens settings and trying to figure that out. Struggling between 16:9 for "full screen" on most displays or 4:3 for traditional artistic ratio.Sure. The best way is to stick to the "science" of photographers. A "Full Frame" camera has a sensor width of 36mm. In DAZ it is called "Frame Width" and can be found within the camera settings. So a Normal Lens would be around 50mm "Focal Length". Everything larger is considered "Tele Lens" (or sometimes zoom lens IMO this is a misleading name) everything below Wide Angle Lens. Tele Lenses with an approx range of 65mm were considered good for portraits, and they still are to a certain degree, but they fell out of fashion for 90+mm when it comes to high-quality portraits in magazines or fine art.
The Default Values in DAZ Studio are 36mm for Frame Width and 65mm for Focal length.
Good for close up portraits not so much for portraits with a lot of scenery around.
Change the Focal Length to 50mm.
Other typical settings would be 22,5mm for Frame Width and 32mm for Focal Length. (Normal Lens APS-C [not Canon they are special snowflakes])
Frame Width 24mm and 30mm Focal Length (Normal Lens for Canon APS-C)
And my favourite 17,3mm Frame Width and 25mm Focal Length (Micro Four Thirds) for this you will also use a 4:3 Aspect Ratio for the most photorealistic result.
Stick to this, remember always a "Normal Lens" represents the natural distortion humans experience with their eyes.
Tele Lenses help you with separation and focus on a single subject Wide Angle Lenses are more for scenery and help you to present a strong foreground and lessen the impact of the background the wider they get. And they always distort your image in a certain way.
The other settings are probably too much for now.
For your colourblindness there are two very helpful "tricks" you could use.
First, always have a small plane that is purely "normal grey" and has a matte surface. 24% grey for Canon Cameras 18% grey for the rest of the world (RGB 118,118,118). Just put it in a corner you know you will crop out later in postwork. This grey plane you can use to let the postwork program of your choice make an automatic white balance. It is important that the plane is rendered within your scene. If you are using Lightroom you could also put a pure white and pure black plane next to the grey one. Lightroom has a white balance tool that can use all three pieces of information to give optimal results. I really wish RawTherapee would also have the black and the white colour picker for white balance. After that, only enhance with the "Vibrance" slider and activate "protect skin colours" if available in your software, not the "Saturation" slider. "Vibrance" has an inbuild smart macro to pick colours for you while "Saturation" impacts every colour equal. And use it with care. Most of the time values between 15 and 25 are enough to make a difference. Your taste and experience is the key here.
The other "trick" is, to go b/w or monochrome. Depending on the kind of colourblindness there could be comfortable monochrome palettes for you to use. A friend of mine is weak on green and red, so he likes to dabble with blue schemes.
When it comes to clutter there are a lot of nice and good tips here in the thread, depending on the processing power of your rig. Billboards, Scene Optimizer and scatter tools that create instances are the most versatile options to achieve good results with reasonable impact to the render time.
Had no idea about using planes to automatically create a white balance. Indeed it would be far easier for me to render the entire scene in B/W and leave it that way as the subjective placement of hues doesn't really make any sense.
- Apr 18, 2021
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I swapped out the locker and added more background stuff to liven up the scene. Lighting is still WIP.
- Mar 13, 2020
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Don't stress about the Aspect Ratio too much. Instead think of, under what circumstances will this render be seen? As part of a game? Use the ratio of the device the game will be played on (probably 16:9). As a print? Well, use the Ratio of the paper you print on. On a phone or tablet? Try 9:16 or 3:4, most people use their phone in a vertical position.
(I hate vertical videos)On Instagram? Use 1:1.
Do you want to do smth photorealistic? Use whatever ratio you like, photos are vast and plenty there are no guidelines. But remember that film, slates and sensors of cameras have a defined base ratio. It is a good idea to make your base render with the same ratio as your preferred camera. I love the Olympus Cameras and they come with a base ratio of 4:3. It is just that photographers crop their pictures to optimize their composition, which leads to very odd results sometimes. Ever seen a portrait in a 2:11 ratio? Well, I have.
If you are struggling between 16:9 and 4:3 for personal taste. keep in mind that 16:9 shows more scenery compared to 4:3 which means you as the artist has to show smth within this space. No idea what to do with this additional space? Use 4:3. 4:3 looks too cramped? Use 16:9 and spread stuff out.
The thing with the plane is used by photographers and videographers for ages. ^^ They have dedicated grey cards and colour plates for exactly this reason. In CG we can just borrow this method. xD
btw. the new version is definitely an enhancement compared to the first version. I like it.
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- Jan 16, 2018
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